Coming over on the Boat
by Henry P. Kramer
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Dad went to the United
States a month before the rest of us did. Mother, my sister, Doris, and
my brother, Steve and I followed him a month later. At the time we were
living in Antwerp, a big port city in Belgium. The ship we took sailed
from the French port, Cherbourg, on the English Channel, a branch of the
North Sea that separates the French mainland from the islands of Great
Britain. The ship, the SS Berengaria, owned by the Cunard Line, had its
homeport in Southampton in the South of England.
From Antwerp we took a
train to Paris where we spent the night. The next day we went on to Cherbourg.
The evening we spent in Paris was memorable. First we registered at the
hotel and went up to our room on the elevator. The elevator was a glass
cage pulled up by a cable. We could see all around everyone and us saw
us going up in the glass cage. When we had all washed up a bit, we went
out to eat at a restaurant.
Of course, being in Paris,
it was a French restaurant, and according to the French custom, there
was a carafe of wine on the table and next to each plate was a glass.
Even though I was only eleven, I drank wine with my meal, according to
the French custom. And the more I drank the better I liked it. The wine
put me in the mood for the next adventure that mother took us on.
We got into a taxi and
she told the driver to take us for a ride down the famous Champs Elysee,
the main street of Paris. There was a slight drizzle and the pavement
was wet. So the glistening pavement reflected the many lights from the
street lamps that lined the road. Paris is known as the City of Light
and so it will be forever in my memory.
The next day we arrived
in Cherbourg and got on the boat. I remember the strange thought passing
through me that I was leaving civilization forever to go to an unknown
and savage land. Both parts of that feeling were wrong. The continent
of Europe that I was leaving was not so civilized and America, the country
I was going to, was not so savage.
The boat was enormous.
It was like a small floating city. There were three stories, called decks,
for the passengers. First class passengers were on the top deck, the second-class
passengers on the second deck, and the third class passenger on the third
deck. Below that there were accommodations for the crew, and for the cargo,
the supplies, and way below the water line was huge engine that propelled
the ship.
Each of the passenger
decks had several restaurants and dining halls in addition to the room,
called cabins, for the passengers. There were also social rooms where
movies were shown at night. There was a swimming pool. There were places
to play shuffleboard, and ping-pong, and miles of walks on the decks.
My brother and I enjoyed
ourselves enormously on the boat trip. Mother and sister both had seasickness
and stayed in their cabin. Brother and I were not bothered with seasickness.
In the morning we heard a knock on our cabin door. "Yes", we
said. And I very British voice answered "would Master care to have
his bath drawn". We said, "Yes, Master would." A little
while later there was another knock. The voice said, "Master's bath
is drawn." Master went to the bathroom two doors down the hall and
had a nice warm bath in salt water. Then Master got dressed and went with
his brother up to the dining hall.
Because most people were
sick from seasickness we two were almost the only people in the dining
hall. A very tall waiter came to our table with an enormous menu containing
what looked like thousands of different delicious things to eat. Eating
was one of our favorite activities. We chose fruit, and pastry, and bread,
and eggs, and sausages, and ham, and
and
more than we could
possible eat. And there was no mother who told us not to take more than
we could eat.
After breakfast we would
go to the swimming pool. That was a particular joy. Because of the rough
seas in the North Atlantic in November the enormous boat as big as a tall
block long building would pitch, roll and yaw with the waves. (Pitch means
the bow would rise and the stern would fall, and then the bow would dip
into the water and stern would rise. Roll means that the boat would rock
from side to side, and yaw means the ship would move back and forth around
a vertical axis sort of through one of the chimneys.) Combining all those
motions meant misery for some and great fun for others. Steve and I enjoyed
it and particularly in the swimming pool where the water would slosh around
in very interesting patterns. When the sea wasn't too rough we were allowed
to go swimming. But sometimes it was too dangerous to be in the swimming
pool.
Another great diversion
was to play shuffleboard on deck. It was good to be on deck around ten
o'clock because a waiter would come around with tea and sandwiches. Since
it was two long hours since breakfast we were of course ready for a bit
of food. After that we could get back to shuffleboard or ping-pong with
fresh energy. Having built up an appetite again by twelve we were ready
for lunch.
Again we went to the dining
room There were a few more people there than for breakfast but we were
still handed an enormous menu with a vast selection. For the first time
in my life I tasted corn on the cob and didn't like it at all. It has
since become a favorite food.
In the evening, movies
were shown. I remember seeing San Francisco with Spencer Tracy. It was
a fantastic movie about the San Francisco earthquake.
After several days, I
think it was five, we approached the shore of North America. I remember
that most of one day we sailed along Long Island. And I saw all of the
little white houses on shore and for some reason I thought that all of
the people in them must be supremely happy. Finally, towards sunset we
approached New York harbor.
It was time for the early
sunset of winter. The red ball of the sun was setting behind the gigantic
fairy castle of Lower Manhattan and bathing the towers and turrets in
red and orange and purple.
Finally, the huge boat docked at a pier on the West Side of Manhattan
and we walked off the gangplank. And there was Father waiting for us.
We were very happy.
I knew I was in a new
world. I had been used to people behaving in a very orderly quiet fashion.
All of a sudden I was embedded in an ocean of human sound. There were
taxi drivers shouting, there were policemen blowing whistles, there were
trucks tooting their horns. Noise assailed us from everywhere. Papers
were blown by the wind. It was utter chaos and everyone out for himself.
We were in America.